Archive for South Georgia Island

Return to the land of ice

Posted in antarctica, Uncategorized with tags , on February 24, 2014 by polarguide

Its been ten months since I last visited Antarctica. Its hard to believe that much time has passed. Its fells so natural to return and I am often surprised at how familiar I have become with a places so remote.

I Boarded the Akademic Vavilov on the 6th of february and started a three week expedition that visited the Falkland Islands, South Georgia Island and Antarctica. This voyage is one of the most historical, remote and wildlife rich journeys in the world. I feel blessed that I am so fully involved in such a euneak and special experience.

I am in Ushuia, Argentina today on a two hour shore leave before disembarking again for the Antarctic continent I have so many photos and stories to share, but so little time. And the internet connection is too slow.  Here are a few shots of the journey. I will share as many as the connection will allow.

review

I have to admit I was a little rusty after spending so much time off the ship. It took at least a week to regain all my confidence running zodiac and kayak operations in this wild and unpredictable part of the world. I have my sea legs under me again. I leave this afternoon for three more voyages to the land of ice.

review-10

review-17review-18review-11review-14review-16review-7 review-8 review-19

In Ushuia

Posted in antarctica, Falkland Islands, penguins, photography, South Georgia Island, Uncategorized with tags , , , on February 18, 2013 by polarguide

We are in port today for just a few hours after finishing an 18 day voyage to the Falkland Islands, South Georgia Island and Antarctica.

We had a great voyage with lots of bad weather and terrific wild-life experiences.  I have just a few minutes to post this and a few of my favorite photos.

rack

Most of the Reindeer have been removed from South Georgia Island.  We bartered some fresh vegetables for a hindquarter with the folks doing the removal.  We cooked it in the galley, I have to say it was by far the nicest meat I have ever eaten.

King penguin with newly hatched chick

King penguin with newly hatched chick

Sea ice in the Drake Passage

Sea ice in the Drake Passage

We spent one full day trying to find a route around sea ice that had drifted up from the Weddell sea.  At one point the captain decided to break straight  trough.

South Georgia Island Reindeer

Posted in South Georgia Island, travel, Uncategorized, wildlife with tags , , , , on January 18, 2013 by polarguide
Reindeer and king penguin

Reindeer and king penguin

Between 1911 and 1912  seventeen Norwegian reindeer were introduced to South Georgia Island as a food source for whalers working on the Island.  This introduction is one of only two successfull introductions of reindeer to the southern hemisphere.

By the 1950s the population of reindeer had risen to over 3000 animals.  With most of the island being comprised of high mountains covered by glacial ice the foraging area available to the deer is limited.  Over the decades the reindeer have over grazed most of the available food source causing significant erosion.  The erosion and over grazing caused by the reindeer has had a significant negative impact on the native ground nesting bird populations.

The South Georgia government has planned the eradication of the reindeer.  Using traditional Sami’ herdring methods and sharp shooters to kill the inaccessible animals they plan to cull the entire herd by the end of this austral summer season.

Upon landing on South Georgia Island last week I came upon one of the largest herds on the island in Fortuna bay.  I sat quietly as the entire group surrounded me while grazing not far from the beach.

The eradication of the alien reindeer is necessary to return the island to its natural ecological state. But I  admit I have enjoy seeing them share the beach with fur seals and penguins.   I felt fortunate to have the opportunity to photograph these species that are ecological polar opposites thriving in the wilderness and beauty of south georgia island, for the last time.  The ship carrying the eradication team floated offshore as I shot these photos.  I will be back on South Georgia in late january, by then all of the reindeer will have already been removed.

southern fur seal and reindeer

southern fur seal and reindeer

The herd

The herd

sharing uncommon space

sharing uncommon space

Photographing Birds in Flight

Posted in antarctica, Falkland Islands, guiding, photography, South Georgia Island, tourism, travel, Uncategorized, whales, wildlife with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , on January 16, 2013 by polarguide
Giant Petrel

Giant Petrel
F5 1/1250

I wrote previously about my mild obsession of photographing birds in flight.  Particularly sea birds flying over the ocean. Shooting Prions, Albatross and Petrels soaring over the southern ocean from the bow of a ship is exciting and challenging.  I have thousands of images of birds in flight but only a handful that are worthwhile.  Capturing pin sharp images of flying birds from the rail of a moving ship on a stormy sea is very difficult.

My goal is to get the sharpest image possible.  I want to photograph the bird in a banking turn to capture the entire upper or lower surface of the bird to show off detail and patterns in the feathers with the head turned slightly and at least one eye visible. If I am shooting with the ocean as my back ground I try to include a cresting wave to show the drama and motion of the life of a sea bird.  With the sky as background I slightly over expose the shot to pull the bird out of the background and open up the shadows on the bird created by the highlights in the sky.

There are probably lots of ways to increase you chances of success.  This is how I do it, or at least how I try to do it.  If anyone has suggestions on techniques I would love to hear about it:

First I watch.  I stand on the bow of the ship or on the shore and spend ten or fifteen minutes observing .  Each species has its own technique and generally fly in a patten that is somewhat dictated by the speed and direction of the wind and also the waves when at sea.

Once I have a general idea of what species I will be shooting and the direction of the wind and the birds flight pattern around my position I set a few camera functions that help maximize my ability to focus on the moving bird.

I shoot on aperture priority and I find in most cases a shutter speed of at least 1/1250 is necessary to freeze motion, which means I am almost always shooting at iso 400. I rarely go higher than iso 400, for me the pixel grain is too obvious. I try to have as small an aperture as possible.  My largest lens is 200mm and at f7 or less if your auto focus locks on the wing the eye of the bird will be soft and for me the eye has to be sharp.  I think f8 is best but I am often forced to shoot at  f5.6 or less to keep the shutter speed over 1/1250.

I lock my focal point in the center and have nine points active, I set my autofocus on continuous.  Then I choose one bird to focus on and observe. When I have an idea of its flight pattern I lock my autofocus on it and pan with it until it flies into position and I fire.  Sometimes I shoot on burst and sometimes I try and capture one image at just the right moment, it depends on my mood and what species I am shooting, the windspeed and the wave height.

On rare occasions the ocean is glassy calm and capturing the flight of the bird and its reflection mirrored on the sea surface is possible, these are some the most coveted images.

Here are some examples from the last two weeks and my most previous voyage to South Georgia Island and the Antarctic continent.

Light Mantled Sooty Albatross

Light Mantled Sooty Albatross
F3.5 1/2000

Light Mantled Sooty Abatross

Light Mantled Sooty Albatross
F3.5 1/2000

Blue Eyed Shag with nest material

Blue Eyed Shag with nest material

Antarctic Prion

Antarctic Prion
F8 1/800

Antarctica and then some

Posted in antarctica, Elephant seals, Falkland Islands, Fur seals, guiding, Leopard seal, penguins, photography, South Georgia Island, tourism, travel, Uncategorized, whales, wildlife with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on September 29, 2012 by polarguide

Our ship, Russian owned and operated Ice class research vessel the Akademik Ioffee

For History buffs, photographers, adventurers and wildlife enthusiasts Antarctica is the ultimate vacation destination. This will be my third season working in Antarctica with One Ocean Expeditions. One Ocean offers several Antarctic voyages ranging in length from ten to eighteen days.  The crown jewel of wildlife viewing polar expeditions is the eighteen day Falkland Islands, South Georgia and Antarctica adventure.

The Falklands float 250 nautical miles west of Argentina, it takes two full days at sea  to reach the Islands.  The archipelago is a self-governing off shore territory of the United Kingdom.  There are more than 200 Islands  with a population of  3,100 people, the vast majority being of British decent.  Argentina has always claimed the Falklands to be an Argentinian territory and in 1982 the Argentinian military invaded the islands and a two month-long war ensued resulting in the defeat and surrender of all Argentinian troops.  To this day Barbed wire fences barricade beaches and pastures laden with land mines.

The Islands are a windswept landscape of stony hills and sea cliffs  punctuated  with  emerald pompoms of  tussock grass. For three days we make landings at significant wildlife viewing areas. We visit nesting sites of the Black browed albatross, Rockhopper, Magellanic and Gentoo penguins.  Fur seals, Sea lions  and elephant seals rest and raise their young on wavy beaches.  We complete our time in the Falklands with a visit to the city of Stanley, the capital of the islands, Population 1,500.  From there we begin our two-day journey to South Georgia Island.

Windy hillside of Carcass Island, Falkland Islands.

Nesting colony of Black browed albatross

Nesting pair of Black browed albatross

Magellanic Penguin

Rockhopper penguin

Captain james cook was the first person to step ashore on South Georgia Island in 1775.  The first Sealing campaign began in 1788 and by 1828 1.2 million Fur seals were slaughtered for their pelts, driving the species to the edge of extinction.  Whalers arrived in the late 1890’s and by 1930 40,000 whales had been killed. By 1965 the whale populations had declined so severely the industry was no longer economical and the whaling stations were abandoned.   During our three days on South Georgia Island we visit the remains of these whaling stations.  The bones of long abandoned building and the rusty corpses of ships that once participated in the slaughter  now serve as shelter for the Fur seals and penguins they once exploited.

Abandoned ship near whaling station

Fur seal pups take shelter under propellers from abandoned whaling ships

South Georgia Island  is one of the most intense wildlife experience on the planet.  Its stormy shores teem with life and the  number of animals on one beach can be overwhelming.  We visit King penguin colonies where the penguins number in the hundreds of thousands.  They waddle down beaches along side fur seals.  The Elephant seals stack themselves side by side so numerous you could walk their backs for the entire length of the beach, although I wouldn’t recommend it, these behemoths weigh in at eight tons.

Typical South Georgia beach

250,000 king penguins

Don’t get too close to these guys

Before landing at south Georgia we issue bright red rain-gear and green rubber boots to every passenger. This wardrobe serves two functions: It keeps the penguin poo off the passengers clothes and  helps the staff differentiate people from penguins. We lecture every passenger about how to safely conduct themselves around so much wildlife.  We remind people that Elephant seals are wild animals,and although they have a placid demeanor they can be accidentally dangerous.  “You can avoid being crushed to death” I tell people, “by not napping on the beach.”  I also advise that if while photographing a fur seal it rises up on its flippers and runs at you open-mouthed as if it might bite you, it might.  And last but not least, please don’t stand on the penguins.

Pushing the limits

Passengers give their full attention to this lecture.  They nod in agreement as if it were all common sense, but when the first zodiac surfs to a landing grown men and women revert to children. I call it the “Willy Wonka effect”. Remember that scene in Willy Wonka And The Chocolate Factory when Willy swings open the doors to his world of candy ?  All the children run wild stuffing their faces with exotic sweets and wreak havoc on willy’s wonderland of confection. Then the fat kid falls into the chocolate river.  landing on South Georgia Island  is a-lot like that.

A zodiac slides up the beach, red pants swing over pontoons, green boots trudge up the gravel slope and penguins scatter.  They knock into each other like concerned and confused umpa-lumpas. I stand back and watch the comedy unfold: People can’t control themselves, I watch them chase penguins with their point and shoots cameras. To my left I see someone topple over a penguin while walking backwards trying to take a photograph. A little old lady runs past me with an angry fur seal hot on her heels while to my right a man inches too close to a mountain of Elephant seals, daring one to crush him. And then the fat kid falls into the chocolate river, except the river isn’t chocolate its a hot puddle of penguin shit mixed with Elephant seal dung.

After snapping several thousand photographs everyone relaxes. The penguins catch their breath and with the guidance of experienced staff people learn that if they just stand still the wildlife becomes curious.  Slowly, animals assemble to gawk at the strange creatures with red legs and awkward green feet.  Penguins side up to inspect the new comers in a highbrow manner, as if comparing wardrobes. At the end of every excursion passengers return to the ship in a state of joy. cocktail hour and dinner are all a buzz with tales of the day.  Everyone has an exciting story to share of their intimate wildlife experience.

Close encounters with Fur seal pups

Communing with king penguins

Our last stop at south Georgia is at Grytviken whaling station to visit the grave of Antarctica’s most famous explorer, Sir Ernest Shackleton.  We make a procession to his grave and toast the boss with a slug of whiskey then spend the afternoon walking among the relics of the whaling station.

Grytviken whaling station

Shackleton’s Grave

As we sail south I watch from  the aft deck as the island fades into the northern horizon.  Here I become washed by a wave of nostalgia.  Our ship surfs the wake of  histories great heroes. We are following a course set by men such as: Vasco DA Gamma, Ferdinand Magellan, Francis Drake, James cook and Thaddeus Von Bellinghausen. Our destination, a continent so secluded its existence remained a myth until it was first sighted in 1820. Antarctica.

The ice in Antarctica is immense and looms above everything like a great glinting mountain.   Black cliffs reach to the sun as if trying to escape the sinking weight of the blue blanket if ice .  The entire continent is entombed in a world of winter.

Enormous iceberg dwarfs a zodiac

The continent is frozen under seven thousand feet of glacial ice, the downward force drives its plastic mass seaward until its precipice shatters into the ocean creating icebergs the size of small countries.  The bergs glow a surprising shade of blue that seems to radiate from deep inside, as if an icy neon light burned at its core. The temperature of the thick ocean drifts around 32 degrees. There are no trees, the vegetation is limited to lichen and moss.  It is a stark world of contrast that shines like a jewel.

Breaking through sea ice below the Antarctic circle

Regardless of the harsh, barren environment Antarctica flourishes with life.  The extended summer sunlight and constant upwelling current create a marine soup that supports a complex and bountiful ecosystem.  Thousands of Penguins nest on rocky snow-covered hill sides.  Leopard seals, crab eater seals and Wedell seals nap on ice floes while orca whales hunt through a maze of icebergs.  humpback whales graze on krill in the frigid inky water.  Being there  feels like  you have traveled through time to a place before people.  A place where the earths forces conduct a symphony life.

Lonely penguin returning to the nest

Close encounter with a Humpback whale

Orca whales dwarfed by Antarctic landscape

My first voyage departs November 8th.